Abbreviations
Common Pattern Jargon
Hardware Basics
Thread, Stitching and Needles
Sewing with different fabrics
Holding it together: pins, clips and tape
Common interfacings and stabilizers
WFI – Woven Fusible Interfacing
SA - Seam Allowance
RS – Right Side of Fabric
WS – Wrong Side of Fabric
RST – Right Sides Together
WST – Wrong Sides Together
DST- Double-Sided Tape
The pattern piece may look something like the one below. Fold your fabric in half and position the edge of the pattern with the arrows against the fold line. Cut the remaining sides. Open your piece of fabric and proceed as per pattern instructions.
A channel is usually sewn when something, like elastic, is to be threaded through it, i.e. for an elasticated pocket.
Generally, you will be sewing a line of stitches with a specified gap, parallel to either a fold or another line of stitches.
For most patterns, I recommend block fusing before cutting out.
Block Fusing means cutting your fabric to a length and fusing interfacing to it BEFORE cutting out the individual pattern pieces. As opposed to cutting the pieces out in both the fabric and the interfacing and then fusing them all individually afterwards. As you can imagine, this saves quite a bit of time.
Block fusing can prevent cotton etc. from fraying, and allows your cutting to be as accurate as possible. This doesn’t mean you have to do the whole piece of fabric at once, just enough to fit a couple of the pattern pieces with minimum waste around.
Exceptions: If the pattern specifies that you should cut the seam allowance off the interfacing,
NOTE: if the pattern specifies to remove the seam allowance you should NOT block fuse.
Take your time with preparation: Cut out all required pieces as per the cutting chart or pattern instructions as accurately as possible and either clip the paper pattern piece to them or use labels, if provided in the pattern.
Mark the centres after cutting, where mentioned in the instructions, this will help you line things up.
Make a small snip or use a non-erasable pencil* or similar, to mark the centres within the seam allowance. I prefer to snip.
*Use something that’s not going to rub off while you are sewing but will also not bleed through your fabric later.
While there are lots of different options for hardware used in bag making, here are some of the most common:
Rectangular rings: used for fixed straps where the strap is fed through the ring and stitched in place.
D rings and swivel snap hooks: D rings are used to create a strap anchor and are generally sewn onto a tab. The strap is attached with a removable swivel snap hook/lobster clasp which is attached to the strap.
Purse chain: Usually attached to D rings via a swivel hook, which is built into the chain.
Purse locks: These come in various sizes and are used to close a bag.
Magnetic snaps: generally, 14 mm – 18 mm 5/8” -3/4”. These are used to close the top of totes, and flaps on purses and other bags.
These are used to create a more secure closure for a bag.
Zippers commonly come in two sizes, #5 and #3, however, #4.5 is also available and is generally interchangeable.
Zipper size is determined by the width of the teeth. The tape width may also vary.
Standard sizes
#5 teeth, tape width 1 ¼” Commonly used for bag closures and exterior pockets.
#3 teeth, tape width 1”. Commonly used for interior pockets and smaller bag and pouch closures.
#4.5 teeth, tape width 1 14”. Can be used for most requirements.
These are used to reinforce a bag where extra strength is required, like a strap anchor for instance. They are also used for decoration and to give the bag a professional finish.
Both require a hole to be punched through the fabric.
Chicago screws have a wider shank and are screwed together whereas rivets require a tool to insert them.
Choosing the correct size of rivet: You should have 1-2mm of the post sticking through the fabric, enough for the cap to pop on easily, but without leaving too much of a gap. If your post is too short, the rivet may pop open with use. If your post is too long you may bend it or dent it while installing the rivet.
Domestic sewing machines – most newbie bag makers.
Regular polyester thread like Guttermann Sew all thread is perfect for most bag making projects if you are using a domestic sewing machine.
Using a topstitching needle and topstitching thread can elevate your project when sewing the topstitching for the finishing touches.
Industrial sewing machines – Tex 70 Bonded polyester and bonded nylon will be suitable for most projects and machines.
Stitch length can vary depending on what you are sewing.
Seams: stitch length 2.6 – 3
Topstitching: stitch length 4 – 5 depending on the thickness of the layers. Consider using
When sewing thicker fabrics like vinyl, you may need to increase your stitch length.
Uneven stitching and skipped stitches can be caused by a variety of problems.
Incorrect Tension: Check that the tension is correct, and the stitches look even on both sides of the fabric. This is particularly important when sewing through thicker layers.
Incorrectly threaded machine: It is easy to miss a step in the threading. Always thread the machine with the foot raised and lower it only when you are threading the actual needle. This will ensure the thread feeds correctly through the tension discs.
Dull or gummy needle. An old needle or one that has sewn through too much double-sided tape can cause stitches to skip and thread to fray. If you are using double -sided tape, keep a small bottle of alcohol like meths close by and regularly wipe the needle down.
Stitch length varying, particularly at thicker seams: Just like you, your machine will take shorter steps if the presser foot is sloping uphill. Use a hump humper or a thick needle case under the back of the pressure foot to even it out BEFORE you sew over the seam. This will help you stitches stay an even length.
You can also bash the seams with a hammer to thin them out a bit.
Using the correct needle reduces the risk of skipped stitches and even needle breakage. Check out the fabric sections below for the best needle for your project.
Quilting cotton, cotton duck, cotton canvas, denim etc.
Interfacing and stabilizer.
Interfacing and stabilizer can be applied directly to the wrong side of the fabric. If using cotton duck or cotton canvas for the lining, you will not need to add woven fusible interfacing in most cases. This can help reduce the number of layers in your seams.
Needles:
Universal heavy weight 90/14
These needles work well for just a few layers of woven fabric, think pouches with medium interfacing and no stabilizer. 4-6 layers in total.
Denim or Jeans Needle - these heavy-duty needles are designed for penetrating extra thick woven fabrics, think about your favourite Levis and are great for woven fabrics with multiple layers and added stabilizer.
These fabrics can be a lot thicker than woven fabric and may also tear easily.
Interfacing and stabilizer:
The thickness means that they do not require interfacing unless the pattern specifies it. Stabilizer can be applied directly to the fabric.
Note: while most vinyl and faux will tolerate the heat of a medium iron with the help of a pressing cloth, always test first. If you are at all concerned, consider applying the stabilizer to the lining instead.
Needle: Microtex/Sharp Needle - The very thin sharp point of these needles is designed to penetrate fabrics with minimal damage. They are also strong and will cope with several layers. Recommended weight 90/14
Do not use a leather needle on faux leather or lighter vinyl as the point has a blade which may slash the fabric causing it to rip.
Extra tips:
Unless you are already used to sewing with leather, as a newbie bag maker, I would recommend building your basic bag sewing skills before attempting leather.
Interfacing
Interfacing is not required for most leather projects. Stabilizer may be used but always follow the pattern instructions. Bear in mind that leather shrinks when heated, so use a sew on stabilizer if necessary.
Leather Needle - These feature a cutting point designed to penetrate hide. Use on leather,
Topstitching
If you are using regular thread, then stick to the needle that works best for your bag. Sew a test piece first with the same materials and thickness. If your thread starts to fray, or you want to use top-stitch thread, then switch to a Top-stitching needle. These have a long eye which means there is less friction on the thread as it passes through the fabric.
Quilting Clips, easy to use and will hold the fabric together much more accurately than pins, which can slide.
Pins are still useful, particularly in areas that you cannot reach with a clip. However, avoid using them on cork or vinyl where they can leave permanent holes.
Double sided tape, DST, 1/8” or 3 mm is very useful for anchoring areas that are difficult to sew or inaccessible for clips etc.
Woven fusible interfacing (WFI) in a medium weight is commonly used on most fabrics in bag making. It gives structure and body to the fabric. It is made from a woven fabric, usually cotton or polyester and has a glue on one side which adheres it to the fabric when heated. The woven nature of this interfacing allows it to move with the fabric and produce a better finish than a non-woven interfacing would do. These can cause crinkling.
Patterns will often ask for Pellon SF101, but any good brand of medium weight woven fusible interfacing is suitable.
The most common non-woven stabilizers used in bag making are Decovil light and Decovil 1 (heavy). Decovil is a fusible fabric, with a leatherlike feel. It is flexible and crinkles less than other non-woven stabilizers., and is used to give structure and support to the bag.
Fusible fleece is used to give extra body and a soft structure or padding to bag sewing projects. It comes in both high loft and low loft varieties, depending on how much body or support is required.
Headliner foam or ByAnnie soft and stable are two of the most common foams used. Their thickness gives a solid, but soft structure to back packs and tote bags.